Zeroing means aligning your point of aim with your point of impact at a chosen distance. It is simple once you stop chasing single shots and start reading groups. Here is the whole process.
1. Mount solidly first
A zero is only as stable as the mount under it. Level the reticle, set eye relief and torque everything to spec before you fire a shot — see our scope mounting guide. A loose ring is the number-one cause of a "wandering" zero.
2. Boresight to get on paper
Boresighting points the bore and the reticle at roughly the same spot so your first group lands on the target rather than off the backer. Use a bore-sight tool, or on a bolt gun simply remove the bolt, rest the rifle, look through the bore at a target, then adjust the reticle to that same point without moving the rifle.
3. Pick your zero distance
100 yards is the standard, all-purpose zero for most centerfire rifles. A 50-yard zero is popular on carbines and works well with many LPVOs and red dots. Choose one and be consistent.
4. Fire a group, adjust off the center
Shoot a 3-to-5-round group from a stable rest. Ignore individual shots — measure to the center of the group and dial the turrets to move that center to your aiming point. Remember which unit your turrets use; if that is unclear, read MOA vs MIL first. Most turrets tell you the value per click on the cap.
5. Confirm and record
Fire a fresh group to confirm the correction held, then write down your zero and settings. Foul the barrel with a couple of shots before you trust a cold-bore zero. From here, browse all rifle scopes or step up to a long-range scope once your fundamentals are dialed.
